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 Post subject: My successful CS Hybrid technique
 Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2018 1:36 am Post Number: #1 Post

Joined: November 1, 2018
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Hi all. I have become obsessed with making the CS hybrid plug-in compound work perfectly for me. After a lot of experimenting and research, I finally got consistent perfect results-no white ring, no bubbles, no porous surface finish. Although it required a little bit of an investment in some equipment available on eBay, this technique does work perfectly. When I first tried this compound, like many others I didn’t like its shortcomings. However I did like it’s positive characteristics-mainly quick curing time, similarity to cover stock and overall toughness of the material.

So, after a lot of experimenting and research on the web, I purchased a vacuum chamber in a vacuum pump off of eBay (in expensive Chinese type). I also purchased a spray paint pressurization tank-the type that automotive painters use (also an inexpensive Chinese product).

My procedure is this:

1) Proper preparation of the hole.
Like most have set another posts, the whole must be a nice sharp clean cut where it meets the surface and it should be wrapped up inside. I had one plug actually receeded a tiny bit back into the hole so now a rabbit a small group just below the ball surface using a Dremel tool with tiny router bit (the type that looks like a tiny little circular saw). This allows the material to key into the bowl near the surface where it will encounter the most impact stress. The one thing I noticed about this product is that it doesn’t adhere chemically to anything; it mechanically bonds therefore I find the aforementioned process very important.

2) Ball preparation:
Place the dam around the hole in the usual manor, place the ball in the paint pressurization tank on a ball holder ring and have the lid set up and ready for rapid placement

3) Hardner preparation:
as per manufacturers instructions, mix your colors into the measured amount of Hardner. After you’re done doing this, place it in the vacuum chamber and pump it down to about 25 inches of mercury and let it sit while it degasses. This also remove any moisture that might be observed into the material and also has allowed me to use old open containered product successfully. I usually let it sit in there for about five minutes while I’m doing other preparatory work. After this process, mix in the compound as per manufacturers instructions until it just starts to get warm

4) Compound pour:
With the ball inside the pressurization tank, Poor in the mixture and place the lid on top of the tank and pressure rise to about 40 to 50 psi. Let it b Poor in the mixture and place the lid on top of the tank and pressure rise to about 40 to 50 psi. Leave it in there under pressure at least until what’s left in your mixing cup has solidified to a rubbery texture

5) Finishing:
After you take the ball out of the tank, let it cure until machinable.

I know this requires about $500 worth of eBay product, but I feel (at least for myself) that it’s worth it because this is such a good product once you eliminate the usual drawbacks. When I bought my innovative mill drill, I was also sold a case of the product. I Became hell-bent on making it work. Now I love it. Now I have to master color matching-which I am well on my way.

I hope this helps anybody who is likewise motivated.

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