Has anyone had any problems with a Switch Grip inner getting stuck. I never had a problem until Reno last year. I had to have one demolished to get it out. Luckily I had a backup, but it was tight also. When I got home, it was still tight. I worked on the inside of the outer sleeve and the outside of the inner trying to get it to go in and out easier. It didn't seem to be helping until I sanded down the lower radius between the locking pins.
When I had 2 balls drilled this weekend, I gave the PSO the inners and outers I had. I wanted two matching inners done just in case. When he got done with the first one, the inner wouldn't come out. He had to destroy it. He then used two of his inners and they worked fine.
Was there a bad batch or engineering modifications done that is causing this? The PSO said he run into a problem before and Turbo said he made a mistake. It's obvious that is not the case. Turbo should stand behind they're products.
Switch Grips
Moderator: Moderators
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- Member
- Posts: 211
- Joined: April 6th, 2010, 2:56 am
- THS Average: 211
- Positive Axis Point: 5 x 1/4 up
- Speed: 18
- Rev Rate: 375
- Axis Tilt: 11
- Axis Rotation: 65
- Heavy Oil Ball: Proton Physix
- Medium Oil Ball: Phase 2
- Light Oil Ball: IQ Emerald
- Preferred Company: Storm
Switch Grips
Guy Babione
Right Handed
PAP 5" by 1/4" up
65* rotation
11* tilt
375 rev rate
18 mph off hand
Right Handed
PAP 5" by 1/4" up
65* rotation
11* tilt
375 rev rate
18 mph off hand
Re: Switch Grips
Was the ball in Reno drilled there, or was it your ball and inner from home that suddenly became inseparable?
If it was your prior equipment, there could have been some expansion/contraction issues that caused the outer sleeve to bulge inwards, locking up the inner.
When your PSO drilled those 2 this past weekend, he may have placed the inner before the glue from the outer had set, and if any excess had migrated towards the center, it could have cemented the lugs in place. I noticed glue on the lugs once during an install; luckily, I used a slower setting glue and removed the inner before the glue had set.
I've also heard that trimming the inner and outer at the same time can fuse the sleeves together, as a router will spin fast enough to melt the material. I have my router set to its slowest speed, and I always trim the 2 separately, so I've been able to avoid that situation.
Beyond that, I've never noticed a problem with the Turbo pieces, from one batch to the next.
So long as the outer sleeve slides freely into the ball before gluing, I've never had an inner stick.
If it was your prior equipment, there could have been some expansion/contraction issues that caused the outer sleeve to bulge inwards, locking up the inner.
When your PSO drilled those 2 this past weekend, he may have placed the inner before the glue from the outer had set, and if any excess had migrated towards the center, it could have cemented the lugs in place. I noticed glue on the lugs once during an install; luckily, I used a slower setting glue and removed the inner before the glue had set.
I've also heard that trimming the inner and outer at the same time can fuse the sleeves together, as a router will spin fast enough to melt the material. I have my router set to its slowest speed, and I always trim the 2 separately, so I've been able to avoid that situation.
Beyond that, I've never noticed a problem with the Turbo pieces, from one batch to the next.
So long as the outer sleeve slides freely into the ball before gluing, I've never had an inner stick.
Right Handed
Speed: 18 mph (foul line)
Rev Rate: ~350 rpm
Tilt: 10*
Rotation: 55*
PAP: 5 1/8" right, 1/2" up
Speed: 18 mph (foul line)
Rev Rate: ~350 rpm
Tilt: 10*
Rotation: 55*
PAP: 5 1/8" right, 1/2" up
-
- Member
- Posts: 211
- Joined: April 6th, 2010, 2:56 am
- THS Average: 211
- Positive Axis Point: 5 x 1/4 up
- Speed: 18
- Rev Rate: 375
- Axis Tilt: 11
- Axis Rotation: 65
- Heavy Oil Ball: Proton Physix
- Medium Oil Ball: Phase 2
- Light Oil Ball: IQ Emerald
- Preferred Company: Storm
Re: Switch Grips
My first thought was it was just the elevation in Reno. When I got back to Ohio, my spare was still stuck. I managed to get it out without damaging it. I haven't bowled in leagues the past 2 years. When I got my equipment out this Winter to practice, it was still tight. That is when I spent a few hours getting it to go in and out easily. The outer was not damaged either time so it wasn't a glue issue. My spare inner was tight in new ball, but his were not. That is why I think it was a problem with the batch of inners I had.
Guy Babione
Right Handed
PAP 5" by 1/4" up
65* rotation
11* tilt
375 rev rate
18 mph off hand
Right Handed
PAP 5" by 1/4" up
65* rotation
11* tilt
375 rev rate
18 mph off hand
Re: Switch Grips
Could you clarify if the inner worked before you went to Reno?
Did you buy the complete inners (sleeve with slug), or did you buy the sleeves and add a different brand slug later?
I've noticed that different brand slugs can vary in size a bit.
Did you buy the complete inners (sleeve with slug), or did you buy the sleeves and add a different brand slug later?
I've noticed that different brand slugs can vary in size a bit.
Right Handed
Speed: 18 mph (foul line)
Rev Rate: ~350 rpm
Tilt: 10*
Rotation: 55*
PAP: 5 1/8" right, 1/2" up
Speed: 18 mph (foul line)
Rev Rate: ~350 rpm
Tilt: 10*
Rotation: 55*
PAP: 5 1/8" right, 1/2" up
-
- Member
- Posts: 211
- Joined: April 6th, 2010, 2:56 am
- THS Average: 211
- Positive Axis Point: 5 x 1/4 up
- Speed: 18
- Rev Rate: 375
- Axis Tilt: 11
- Axis Rotation: 65
- Heavy Oil Ball: Proton Physix
- Medium Oil Ball: Phase 2
- Light Oil Ball: IQ Emerald
- Preferred Company: Storm
Re: Switch Grips
I didn't have any problems before Reno. They are all Turbo products. I didn't know any other product fit. I thought maybe the weight block shifted or something because of the elevation or during flight. But when there was a problem with the new balls, I knew that wasn't the case.
Guy Babione
Right Handed
PAP 5" by 1/4" up
65* rotation
11* tilt
375 rev rate
18 mph off hand
Right Handed
PAP 5" by 1/4" up
65* rotation
11* tilt
375 rev rate
18 mph off hand
- Viper
- Member
- Posts: 355
- Joined: March 14th, 2012, 3:36 am
- THS Average: 199
- Sport Average: 172
- Positive Axis Point: 5 x 1/2 up
- Speed: 15 at the foul line
- Rev Rate: 315
- Axis Tilt: 15
- Axis Rotation: 45
- Medium Oil Ball: 14 lbs. Hammer Raw Orange/Black Hybrid
- Location: Short Pump, VA
Re: Switch Grips
There is more on this subject within this chat site. Do a search. If I were savvy enough I'd be able to post you a link. Personally, I've been having the same problem of late with inner-sleeves sticking, binding, etc., and I have all the Turbo toys (tools) for persuading them in and out of the outer-sleeves.gbabione wrote:I didn't have any problems before Reno. They are all Turbo products. I didn't know any other product fit. I thought maybe the weight block shifted or something because of the elevation or during flight. But when there was a problem with the new balls, I knew that wasn't the case.
The IS's that I purchased more than a few years ago work better the more recent ones (and I use a custom molded slug glued to the IS). The IS with the factory-mounted slugs won't work at all unless I sand the barrel of the IS. Also, circular cracking of the coverstock around the thumb-hole/OS.
Good luck.
Viper/Joe
Left-handed
PAP 5 x 1/2 up
Tilt: 15*
Rot: 45*
Rev: 315
Speed: 15 at the camera
PAP 5 x 1/2 up
Tilt: 15*
Rot: 45*
Rev: 315
Speed: 15 at the camera
- rrb6699
- Member
- Posts: 797
- Joined: June 22nd, 2013, 12:24 am
- THS Average: 235
- Sport Average: 211
- Positive Axis Point: 4 ovr, 1 up
- Speed: 12-18.5 mph at pin deck
- Rev Rate: 360
- Axis Tilt: 15
- Axis Rotation: 65
- Heavy Oil Ball: 15#-Incognito, Obsession Sld, Altered Reality, Astrophyx Prl
- Medium Oil Ball: 16# Quantum Violet, Honey Badger Rev, Venom Shock
- Light Oil Ball: 15#: StarTrak Ureth -Sky Blue
- Preferred Company: Radical, Storm/Roto, Brunswk
- Location: Central Florida
Re: Switch Grips
I had a new inner drilled recently and I almost couldn't remove it from the ball. my other inner was easy to take in and out of the 3 balls with sleeves. I just used a bevel and 320 then 500 grit sand paper until it was easy to insert and remove.
one of my "rules of thumb" haha is never leave the inners inside any ball. that way when you go to insert an inner, if there seems to be binding, I can bevel and/or just do more sanding again.
of course too loose isnt good either bcause I think its possible that a loose inner can possibly work itself out of the ball. if that ever happened I'd use some fit tape to snug it back some.
one of my "rules of thumb" haha is never leave the inners inside any ball. that way when you go to insert an inner, if there seems to be binding, I can bevel and/or just do more sanding again.
of course too loose isnt good either bcause I think its possible that a loose inner can possibly work itself out of the ball. if that ever happened I'd use some fit tape to snug it back some.
- Viper
- Member
- Posts: 355
- Joined: March 14th, 2012, 3:36 am
- THS Average: 199
- Sport Average: 172
- Positive Axis Point: 5 x 1/2 up
- Speed: 15 at the foul line
- Rev Rate: 315
- Axis Tilt: 15
- Axis Rotation: 45
- Medium Oil Ball: 14 lbs. Hammer Raw Orange/Black Hybrid
- Location: Short Pump, VA
Re: Switch Grips
Interesting. Appears to me that once was ease of transfer/use of the Turbo system is becoming the opposite. If you have to work an IS so that it fits properly there is a good chance when moved to another ball it won't fit properly, causing even further effort to make it work correctly.rrb6699 wrote:I had a new inner drilled recently and I almost couldn't remove it from the ball. my other inner was easy to take in and out of the 3 balls with sleeves. I just used a bevel and 320 then 500 grit sand paper until it was easy to insert and remove.
one of my "rules of thumb" haha is never leave the inners inside any ball. that way when you go to insert an inner, if there seems to be binding, I can bevel and/or just do more sanding again.
of course too loose isnt good either bcause I think its possible that a loose inner can possibly work itself out of the ball. if that ever happened I'd use some fit tape to snug it back some.
I have too much invested in the system but if I were starting from scratch, after reading about the problems folks are having with Turbo, I'd opt for a different system.
Personally, I suspect their specs are off. Perhaps they changed suppliers, or maybe the stuff is being made in China now.
Are any Turbo reps reading our comments on their system? If so, their silence is deafening.
Viper/Joe
Left-handed
PAP 5 x 1/2 up
Tilt: 15*
Rot: 45*
Rev: 315
Speed: 15 at the camera
PAP 5 x 1/2 up
Tilt: 15*
Rot: 45*
Rev: 315
Speed: 15 at the camera
- rrb6699
- Member
- Posts: 797
- Joined: June 22nd, 2013, 12:24 am
- THS Average: 235
- Sport Average: 211
- Positive Axis Point: 4 ovr, 1 up
- Speed: 12-18.5 mph at pin deck
- Rev Rate: 360
- Axis Tilt: 15
- Axis Rotation: 65
- Heavy Oil Ball: 15#-Incognito, Obsession Sld, Altered Reality, Astrophyx Prl
- Medium Oil Ball: 16# Quantum Violet, Honey Badger Rev, Venom Shock
- Light Oil Ball: 15#: StarTrak Ureth -Sky Blue
- Preferred Company: Radical, Storm/Roto, Brunswk
- Location: Central Florida
Re: Switch Grips
well we may be speaking different terminology here. I call the inner the part I remove from the ball. since it slides into the sleeve. maybe I should have said sleeve (inside the ball) and slug (can be moved from ball to ball).
also, I drill all my sleeves with 0/0 pitches, then have the hole in the slug pitched (along with ovaling, etc) the way I want.
sorry for the confusion
also, I drill all my sleeves with 0/0 pitches, then have the hole in the slug pitched (along with ovaling, etc) the way I want.
sorry for the confusion
- Viper
- Member
- Posts: 355
- Joined: March 14th, 2012, 3:36 am
- THS Average: 199
- Sport Average: 172
- Positive Axis Point: 5 x 1/2 up
- Speed: 15 at the foul line
- Rev Rate: 315
- Axis Tilt: 15
- Axis Rotation: 45
- Medium Oil Ball: 14 lbs. Hammer Raw Orange/Black Hybrid
- Location: Short Pump, VA
Re: Switch Grips
No confusion on my part. The IS (inner-sleeve) fits/locks into the OS (outer-sleeve), which is glued into the hole. You can sand/work, either the IS or the OS (or both I suppose). If I get a new IS with custom slug, I now find that I have to sand it IOT fit properly into the OS (ball). I am never going to tamper with the OS since my earlier IS's fit without issue.rrb6699 wrote:well we may be speaking different terminology here. I call the inner the part I remove from the ball. since it slides into the sleeve. maybe I should have said sleeve (inside the ball) and slug (can be moved from ball to ball).
also, I drill all my sleeves with 0/0 pitches, then have the hole in the slug pitched (along with ovaling, etc) the way I want.
sorry for the confusion
Also, I'm also zero/zero on the thumb, but that's because how Mo fitted me. If there is any pitching going on, I'm sure it's reflected in the thumb mold.
Left-handed
PAP 5 x 1/2 up
Tilt: 15*
Rot: 45*
Rev: 315
Speed: 15 at the camera
PAP 5 x 1/2 up
Tilt: 15*
Rot: 45*
Rev: 315
Speed: 15 at the camera