TomaHawk wrote: ↑February 27th, 2021, 5:19 am
My, how times have changed.
I'm not totally against reasonable pin placements, angles, etc. It's bothersome when someone decides to decimate a core design and then publishes it on the net. I don't know about anyone else BC, but I have a sense of monetary value. If someone said, let's lay this 250.00 ball on it's side, basically, zeroing out the intention of the design? I'd be running for the door.
I would have driven you crazy back in the day.
I had a good relationship with the local Pro. He and I did alot of experimentation.
When balls started to flare and then reactive coverstocks were introduced I lacked the speed in my game to get the ball down the lane. At the time we were also bowling on very short, 28' hand oiled lanes. I wanted a ball that did not flare I called it wobble. I didn't want a lopsided ball.
So I had a Teal Rhino drilled Pin on my Axis with a balance hole 9" from grip center through the PAP, taking out positive side and bottom weight. This made the ball very much balanced, zero top weight and zero side weight.
I learned alot about my release and roll being able to see my axis point. It gave me visual feedback I never had before.
With this ball I broke the 200 avg mark for the first time and won more than enough money with it to buy more balls. I've always reinvested my winnings.
Will I ever get a ball drilled like this again, Nope.
Will I have my PAP marked with a different color plug, yes I will.
TomaHawk wrote: ↑February 27th, 2021, 5:19 am
There are so many options out there, as long as that option will play anywhere from the 1 board to the 40th board. The question, would a lower cost, medium flair symmetric allow the person to play within a couple of boards of a low flair expensive asym?
Yes you can use a cheaper ball and play a similar line. But, it is not so much being able to play within a couple of boards and get the ball to the pocket. It is about the carry percentage. I find that I carry better if I have some tilt when the ball hits the pocket. When the tilt gets to zero you are in the realm of the rollout and leaving the flat 10. Or it gets to zero tilt but still has rotation and you leave ringing 10 pins.
Because in many a bowlers' mind its the ball, not that they need to move their feet and play a different line.
Another experiment with not so good results was the short pin Symmetrical low flare. I could always get it to the pocket but my carry percentage was terrible. My conclusion was that it was because it burned off the tilt too fast. I had the same ball drilled with a long pin to PAP low flare layout that carried much better. The shot shape was much different between the 2 as well. But I could play a similar lines.
If you are going to sell them the big money ball it better work. Put the wrong layout on it and they can't play where they are comfortable you won't necessarily have a happy customer.
Some people buy balls based on color or pattern on the ball. I am guilty of this practice too. For a while the ball had to be blue, my favorite color.
My wife is also guilty of this. One year I wanted to get her a new ball. She said she didn't care what ball it was as long as it was green. Just my luck that year there was only one ball out there that was green other than plastic spare balls. I ended up buying the most expensive ball possible at the time. $250 Combat Zone. It was actually a good option because she was needing something that hooked more than her old Pink Hammer.
When the customer chooses the high dollar ball how do you drill it for optimum performance?