What are the current thoughts about resurfacing a new bowling ball to the same specs before you get used to it? The idea is that the factory surface is nearly impossible to recreate. Say a new ball is 500/2000, I would take my own pads and redo it to 500/2000 as that would be a surface I can recreate.
I'm moving from 15 to 14 lbs this year, so I'm starting a replacement arsenal. I haven't used the new balls yet so now would be the ideal time before leagues start.
Resurfacing a new ball
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- MegaMav
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- Viper
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Re: Resurfacing a new ball
To echo MegaMav, smart.
Left-handed
PAP 5 x 1/2 up
Tilt: 15*
Rot: 45*
Rev: 315
Speed: 15 at the camera
PAP 5 x 1/2 up
Tilt: 15*
Rot: 45*
Rev: 315
Speed: 15 at the camera
Re: Resurfacing a new ball
Sparked my curiosity, so I poked around, noticing some articles on methodology on the wiki.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=13420&p=104008&hili ... re#p104008" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Informative comments, especially from JBungard, IMO of course.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=3544&p=40431&hilit=Factory#p40431" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Be much easier if these things weren't round
Take care.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=13420&p=104008&hili ... re#p104008" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Informative comments, especially from JBungard, IMO of course.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=3544&p=40431&hilit=Factory#p40431" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Be much easier if these things weren't round
Take care.
May all beings everywhere be happy and free,
and may the thoughts, words, and actions of my own life
contribute in some way to that happiness
and to that freedom for all.
John
and may the thoughts, words, and actions of my own life
contribute in some way to that happiness
and to that freedom for all.
John
- Viper
- Member
- Posts: 355
- Joined: March 14th, 2012, 3:36 am
- THS Average: 199
- Sport Average: 172
- Positive Axis Point: 5 x 1/2 up
- Speed: 15 at the foul line
- Rev Rate: 315
- Axis Tilt: 15
- Axis Rotation: 45
- Medium Oil Ball: 14 lbs. Hammer Raw Orange/Black Hybrid
- Location: Short Pump, VA
Re: Resurfacing a new ball
Want to add that having a spinner is essential. Initially, you will have to experiment with various abrasives (sanding pads/paper, non-woven pads, compounds, etc.) IOT establish how each product works for you. Search the site and you'll find a PDF that gives you the grit ratings on just about every product used for modifying the surface of your BB. I don't get caught up with exactness of the grit, but I know from experience that I am in the ball park for what I want.
Best to give you an example. My starting surface on any BB is 1500. I achieve this using a gray non-woven pad that I buy in a woodworking store. Now, is it really 1500? I don't know and don't care. It's my benchmark, and I can easily repeat. From there I will either go down or up using either another non-woven pad or Abralon pad, or a compound/polish--products that I have used for years so I am confident in what they will do to the surface.
I also refresh the ball after every session and resurface twice a season (average of every 60 games). I also de-oil before resurfacing (after taking surface to my starting grit (usually 240 or 320). The procedure I use is always the same when I refresh (time on each side (either 4 or 6 sides, your choice). I used to use a kitchen timer but now find that I don't need after having done it so many times. When I completely resurface the ball I keep a record of exactly what I did (grit/product/time applied) so I can either repeat or modify if I need to.
Initially, it can be time consuming but after you have developed a routine, acquired a supply of products that work for you, and have done it more than a few times, it becomes less so.
Good luck!
Viper/Joe
Best to give you an example. My starting surface on any BB is 1500. I achieve this using a gray non-woven pad that I buy in a woodworking store. Now, is it really 1500? I don't know and don't care. It's my benchmark, and I can easily repeat. From there I will either go down or up using either another non-woven pad or Abralon pad, or a compound/polish--products that I have used for years so I am confident in what they will do to the surface.
I also refresh the ball after every session and resurface twice a season (average of every 60 games). I also de-oil before resurfacing (after taking surface to my starting grit (usually 240 or 320). The procedure I use is always the same when I refresh (time on each side (either 4 or 6 sides, your choice). I used to use a kitchen timer but now find that I don't need after having done it so many times. When I completely resurface the ball I keep a record of exactly what I did (grit/product/time applied) so I can either repeat or modify if I need to.
Initially, it can be time consuming but after you have developed a routine, acquired a supply of products that work for you, and have done it more than a few times, it becomes less so.
Good luck!
Viper/Joe
Left-handed
PAP 5 x 1/2 up
Tilt: 15*
Rot: 45*
Rev: 315
Speed: 15 at the camera
PAP 5 x 1/2 up
Tilt: 15*
Rot: 45*
Rev: 315
Speed: 15 at the camera
- snick
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Re: Resurfacing a new ball
Some factory polished balls I have drilled simply do not read the friction as well as they do after refinishing them to similar spec. It's almost as if the factory finish is obliterating the teeth in the coverstock.
Benchmark Bowling Pro Shop
Byron
RH
PAP: 5.5625 x .625 up
REVRATE: 360
SPEED: 17mph at release
AR: 55º
AT: 17º
Byron
RH
PAP: 5.5625 x .625 up
REVRATE: 360
SPEED: 17mph at release
AR: 55º
AT: 17º