When Did YOUR ball die?

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soupy1957
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When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by soupy1957 » April 25th, 2018, 8:53 am

I read a comment in another thread from a fellow who said that his ball cracked, and so it ended up in a landfill. I suppose ultimately that’s where a ball would end up if it was damaged, but it raised a question in me.........

I suppose balls can get chipped, or even crack, but I wonder what disqualifies a ball from use other than very obvious problems like chips and cracks.

For those of you who have retired your bowling balls, for one reason or another, would you care to comment on what kills a bowling ball????

I’m going to expand this topic even a bit further, and ask about those balls that are designed for oily lane. Do they reach a point of saturation, and can they be de-oiled, (for a lack of a better way of saying it)??
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Re: When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by snick » April 25th, 2018, 11:34 am

I de-oil bowling balls quite regularly for my customers, as part of regular resurfacing maintenance.
It is well worth the expense IMO.

I have noticed that the response to friction has decreased over a relatively short time with some of my balls. Not sure why this happens, and even a full resurface does not fully restore the OOB reaction.

For example, my Storm Streetfight, when new, had a very strong backend reaction on virtually any pattern I bowled on. Now I use it mostly for dry lanes and after pattern breakdown.
By way of contrast, My Radical Fix, which has more games on it, is still working more or less as well as it did brand new.
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Re: When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by soupy1957 » April 26th, 2018, 12:32 pm

So, like tread on tires that has to cut through snow in the winter time, the micro crevices on bowling balls, do the same with oil that comes from the lane.

I always wondered why there were machines at bowling alleys for cleaning the balls. I knew that when we dried off the balls with towels in between shots, it was to get rid of excess oil.

I can’t say I ever considered, nor did I ever hear of, people going in and having their balls resurfaced. I watched a video recently about the inside of bowling balls, and I was surprised at how thick the outer core was! It looked like there was at least an inch of polyurethane or whatever kind of material the outer shell is made of! Based on some of the other information I read, there is a requirement for the minimum diameter of the ball. Like the limits on a brake disc, such that you can only turn it down so far, before you have to replace the disk altogether.


I guess I’d have to rely on the fella in the pro shop to tell me whether or not my ball needed to be resurfaced, because unless there was a major gouge in it, I’m not sure I would know when the appropriate time was to do so.
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Re: When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by bowl1820 » April 26th, 2018, 1:13 pm

soupy1957 wrote: Based on some of the other information I read, there is a requirement for the minimum diameter of the ball.
.

You can sand the ball all you want as long as the required markings are still visible.

They changed the rules for minmum diameter requirements years ago. It is only for the mfg. now not the end user.
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Re: When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by soupy1957 » April 26th, 2018, 1:16 pm

bowl1820 wrote:.

You can sand the ball all you want as long as the required markings are still visible.

They changed the rules for minmum diameter requirements years ago. It is only for the mfg. now not the end user.
INTERESTING......... but of course the smaller the diameter, the less the weight.
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Re: When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by bowl1820 » April 26th, 2018, 1:42 pm

soupy1957 wrote:
INTERESTING......... but of course the smaller the diametet, the less the weight.
The miniscule amount of gross weight lost do to sanding would be meaningless.
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Re: When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by stevespo » April 26th, 2018, 7:03 pm

Loss of mass due to sanding might not affect performance, although I believe there is some data to support better carry with smaller diameter bowling balls.

Regardless, the math geek in me wanted to know how much total mass you'd lose over time and it could be several ounces... depending on the depth of the logo and other factors. Seems hard to imagine, but actually doesn't take that much if my math is right.

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Re: When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by bowl1820 » April 26th, 2018, 7:20 pm

stevespo wrote:Loss of mass due to sanding might not affect performance, although I believe there is some data to support better carry with smaller diameter bowling balls.
Yep
"Does Ball Size Matter?" by Ron Hickland
Does Ball Size Matter (2004).pdf
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Re: When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by ads » April 29th, 2018, 10:58 am

snick wrote:I de-oil bowling balls quite regularly for my customers, as part of regular resurfacing maintenance.
It is well worth the expense IMO.

I have noticed that the response to friction has decreased over a relatively short time with some of my balls. Not sure why this happens, and even a full resurface does not fully restore the OOB reaction.

For example, my Storm Streetfight, when new, had a very strong backend reaction on virtually any pattern I bowled on. Now I use it mostly for dry lanes and after pattern breakdown.
By way of contrast, My Radical Fix, which has more games on it, is still working more or less as well as it did brand new.
The chemicals that make up the coverstock the ball. Would this be an answer? We can rebuild the surface roughness but I think the chemical will "grow old" .
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Re: When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by EricHartwell » April 29th, 2018, 4:11 pm

Oh the illusive OOB reaction.
If I like the ball with its out of the box reaction I will end up not liking it as much in the long run.
I feel I am pretty good at de-oiling and resurfacing/tuning surface.
I have come close to original reactions but it's never quite the same.

I have brought back to life many balls in excess of 10 years old to what almost feels like having a brand new ball.

The only bowling ball death I have dealt with was, while I feel lucky, is one ball that cracked.
It kept curing over time and was quite possibly too small in diameter when it finally cracked.
each year I would pull it out and the pin was raised up. I thought at first it was because the pin was close to the ring finger. Nope pin was solid in place, the coverstock was shrinking over time.
ads wrote:The chemicals that make up the coverstock the ball. Would this be an answer? We can rebuild the surface roughness but I think the chemical will "grow old" .
Here is how I understand it...
The reactive chemicals create the microscopic pores that allows the oil to be absorbed. As long as the coverstock is free of oil and the surface pores are not clogged up (dirty unkept surface) it will still absorb the oil. In essence the coverstock is a sponge. What happens when you get an old sponge wet again. It absorbs like it used to. Wring it out (de-oil) it when it gets saturated and use it again.
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Re: When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by soupy1957 » April 30th, 2018, 8:43 am

EricHartwell wrote:............... In essence the coverstock is a sponge. What happens when you get an old sponge wet again. It absorbs like it used to. Wring it out (de-oil) it when it gets saturated and use it again.
If somebody did a study, to examine how far a ball absorbs oil into itself, I’m willing to bet that it doesn’t go anywhere NEAR the total thickness of the outer shell!

That said, I would think that you could simply wash the ball like they used to do, in washing machines at the lanes, and that that would be sufficient; rather than having to resurface it.

I can’t imagine resurfacing a ball, unless it was dinged up and wouldn’t roll smoothly, because of the damage that could occur.

Since I tend to lay the ball down and don’t “drop” it down, I believe I’m less likely to get dings. (At least that’s my “theory” anyway).

I see the “top bowlers” wiping their balls between every shot. That tells me two things.........

A. The lanes at that level of play are VERY oily.
B. They are as neurotic as Garciapara (sp?) was, at the plate, with his batting glove!!
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Re: When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by ads » April 30th, 2018, 11:35 am

soupy1957 wrote:
If somebody did a study, to examine how far a ball absorbs oil into itself, I’m willing to bet that it doesn’t go anywhere NEAR the total thickness of the outer shell!

That said, I would think that you could simply wash the ball like they used to do, in washing machines at the lanes, and that that would be sufficient; rather than having to resurface it.

I can’t imagine resurfacing a ball, unless it was dinged up and wouldn’t roll smoothly, because of the damage that could occur.

Since I tend to lay the ball down and don’t “drop” it down, I believe I’m less likely to get dings. (At least that’s my “theory” anyway).

I see the “top bowlers” wiping their balls between every shot. That tells me two things.........

A. The lanes at that level of play are VERY oily.
B. They are as neurotic as Garciapara (sp?) was, at the plate, with his batting glove!!
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I think every shot will change the surface a bit.
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Re: When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by elgavachon » April 30th, 2018, 6:12 pm

ads wrote: " onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I think every shot will change the surface a bit.
I think they should have checked it after 1 game, but they were making a point. People I talk to who have a surface scanner, say that it is changed after 6 frames to almost that.

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Re: When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by soupy1957 » April 30th, 2018, 6:22 pm

I can hear the next statement coming from a mile away…

Someone is going to say that you should get rid of your bowling ball after____________of play, and replace it!

Geez!!
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Re: When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by stevespo » May 1st, 2018, 3:36 am

soupy1957 wrote:I can hear the next statement coming from a mile away…

Someone is going to say that you should get rid of your bowling ball after____________of play, and replace it!

Geez!!
Maybe you're being funny, most bowlers aren't going to say that... but there is a limit and it's different for everyone.

Yes, a ball will lose it's reaction over time. It can be restored with surface prep and de-oiling. My main league ball has hundreds of games on it, but I do maintain it. It requires work. I have many others that would do as well, but I enjoy using that one.

That said, there is a "new ball" reaction. I can't tell you how many big games I've shot with a brand new ball, first time out. Not just me either. We joke about it. Is it physical, chemical or psychological? I don't know.

If you play tennis, don't you replace the tennis balls? The strings on your racquet? Do you replace golf balls when they get dinged up? The tires on your car? Things wear out. It all depends on the type of experience you want to have bowling.

Steve
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Re: When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by TonyPR » May 1st, 2018, 3:56 am

Important, clean your ball with a good ball cleaner immediately after you finish bowling. Wiping a reactive ball with a towel before every shot is a good thing as reactive resin absorbs oil.

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Re: When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by soupy1957 » May 1st, 2018, 8:38 am

TonyPR wrote:Important, clean your ball with a good ball cleaner immediately after you finish bowling. Wiping a reactive ball with a towel before every shot is a good thing as reactive resin absorbs oil.
Much like a snow tire becomes useless if all of the area in between the treads is compacted with icy snow.......Do most alleys still have ball washes? If not, what do you think about washing your ball at home with a mild detergent, after you bowled, to get lane oil out of the crevices??
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Re: When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by bowl1820 » May 1st, 2018, 1:03 pm

soupy1957 wrote:Do most alleys still have ball washes?
Most alleys never had "Ball Washes", They had ball "Polishers".

They polished balls they didn't clean them, If you put a "dirty" ball in them it just ground the grime in more and got the buffing wheel dirty for the next guy.

In all the years I've bowled I've only seen one machine that actually "washed" a ball (cleaned it) as opposed to polishing it (outside of modern de-oiling devices.)
If not,what do you think about washing your ball at home with a mild detergent, after you bowled, to get lane oil out of the crevices??
Soaking a ball in a bucket of warm soapy water is common way to remove oil and has been done for years.
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Re: When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by TheJesus » June 9th, 2018, 4:16 pm

It is true that surface scanner tests show that most balls, have a surface of around 4000 grit after just 3 games. And if the ball is an already high grit pearl, it's fine. But if it's a low grit solid surface, that should be something to be aware of.

That also suggests that solid/particle balls will not last as long as pearl balls. Personally i have had zero balls "die", as i wipe them after every single shot. Yes they are not "as new", but they are not too far either.

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Re: When Did YOUR ball die?

Post by elgavachon » June 9th, 2018, 5:21 pm

TheJesus wrote:It is true that surface scanner tests show that most balls, have a surface of around 4000 grit after just 3 games. And if the ball is an already high grit pearl, it's fine. But if it's a low grit solid surface, that should be something to be aware of.

That also suggests that solid/particle balls will not last as long as pearl balls. Personally i have had zero balls "die", as i wipe them after every single shot. Yes they are not "as new", but they are not too far either.
Doesn't take 3 games actually. The people who own surface scanners say it can happen after about 6 frames. The way I look at it (which probably isn't exactly right) is to visualize tread on a tire. The deep cuts do not go away in 6 frames. If you look at a ball with a microscope, it has the high ridges just like the part of the tire which touches the road. That is the part which smooths out to 4000. So the deep cuts you put with the low grit change the way the ball pokes through the oil to hit surface, while the top of the ridges (hits the lane after leaving oil) is the part which smooths out. I finish all balls to 4000 to avoid a drastic loss of motion in oil just after warm ups. That way I am warming up and lining up with the same surface I will be using once the lights come on. Any changes I want to make to a ball comes with the first surfaces lower grit before hitting with 4000. I think you have to be lower than 500 in order for it to last for any significant amout of throws. So 500 /2000/4000 would be a good example. If you want a ball to go longer and be smooth, go through all the grits and do not skip. Particle balls should be hit with some sort of scotch bright to avoid sanding off or smoothing off the particles. A lot of balls have particles without being marketed as particle balls so unless I am trying to make a ball go longer, I usually use scotch bright on all balls (especially for the deep cuts).

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