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 Post subject: Joyride cracked need replacment
 Posted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 5:52 pm Post Number: #1 Post
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http://picpaste.com/pics/20170904_10452 ... 546586.jpg
http://picpaste.com/pics/20170904_10453 ... 546651.jpg

Short Version: Does there exist a Solid ball or even hybrid ball that can be used on low volume of oil lanes. It needs to be a reactive if possible so it will retain most of its energy when it hits the pins. The closest I can think of is a Hot Rod Hybrid. The ball will be used mainly for fresh oil lanes to play as far as right as possible from the start. It also needs to be able to get length and be less aggressive then the storm match.

Long Version:

The last time I bowled with it, it got a nick on it. I sat it on thick carpet for the past few weeks (not cold or hot) and when I went to get it, it looked like that.

I was going to start using this again since my match is too strong sometimes. I have a storm banshee I have almost never used but the Diff is much higher then this ball. I also have a hot rod hyrid that might fit the bill though. It is drilled pin down, which is the only ball I have drilled like that. I have a fanatic BTU I can use, but that is for more when the lanes are broke down a bit and not fresh.

I am looking for a Solid ball that is real weak. The only thing I come across is urethane. Maybe a viral solid? I also have a match pearl that I never use that might work also. According to BTM, the match pearl goes longer then the match by a significant amount. I personally don't like pearl balls because I feel that they are so shiny and will slide forever and never grab the lane. I know this isn't true but that is how I judge it before even using it. I have never altered the surface of a pearl before.


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 Post subject: Re: Joyride cracked need replacment
 Posted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:34 pm Post Number: #2 Post
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Just so everyone could have some reference for comparisons etc., could you post a list of every single ball you have now (I know from other posts you have quite a few).

You might possibly already have something that would fit and don't realize it. (Don't say you already know you don't, just humor me.)

As for never having altered the surface of a pearl before, It's no different than surfacing any other ball.

Just change it till you get the reaction you want.

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Last edited by bowl1820 on Mon Sep 04, 2017 8:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Joyride cracked need replacment
 Posted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 8:31 pm Post Number: #3 Post
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Storm Tropical Breeze hybrid, light bulb type core with a .009 differential. That's about as weak as they get in a reactive resin ball. Shop around, you might find a better price. I think they're discontinuing it. -- JohnP

https://www.bowlingball.com/products/bo ... herry.html


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 Post subject: Re: Joyride cracked need replacment
 Posted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 9:41 pm Post Number: #4 Post
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bowl1820 wrote:
Just so everyone could have some reference for comparisons etc., could you post a list of every single ball you have now (I know from other posts you have quite a few).

You might possibly already have something that would fit and don't realize it. (Don't say you already know you don't, just humor me.)

As for never having altered the surface of a pearl before, It's no different than surfacing any other ball.

Just change it till you get the reaction you want.


There's something sadly wrong when a response to a request for help has to include things like this from previous interactions with them.

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 Post subject: Re: Joyride cracked need replacment
 Posted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 10:28 pm Post Number: #5 Post
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Thanks JohnP didn't know the tropical breeze mae a hybrid. I thought they were all pearls.


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 Post subject: Re: Joyride cracked need replacment
 Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 1:36 am Post Number: #6 Post
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krava wrote:
I am looking for a Solid ball that is real weak. The only thing I come across is urethane. Maybe a viral solid?
fwiw
I would not consider the Viral a weak ball. It is a skid snap type reaction, so it gets easy length but once it sees friction it reacts quickly. I have mine drilled with a pin in the ring finger Control layout and cannot play it up the boards. It is too angular at the breakpoint for that.

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 Post subject: Re: Joyride cracked need replacment
 Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 7:58 am Post Number: #7 Post
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I used BTM magazine comparison chart where they show like 100 or so dots and a graph. I looked around to about how much length and hook and came up with the Hammer Arson Low flare solid.

https://www.bowlingthismonth.com/bowlin ... low-flare/

It gets good ratings on sport, dry and medium patterns. I haven't seen any ball score like that. The tropical hybrid breeze gets a bad review from BTM.. I was looking for the biggest core I could get with not too much of a strong cover. The large core will prevent it from spinning early (I can't find my notes) but it has a low RG so it will transition later. The problem is, it is hard to find one of these and nothing I see that is similar enough.

Looking around I found one of these: (Zone X Low differential Red pin)

http://www.ballreviews.com/brunswick/zo ... 143.0.html

http://www.picpaste.com/pics/IMG_2316-C ... 598055.JPG (I have probably 20 games on it. The span is probably 1/2" off I would say and needs to be redone. The RG is 2.61 diff is .024 The question is , is that thing too old and out of date to use? That thing is 17 years old.


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 Post subject: Re: Joyride cracked need replacment
 Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 12:37 pm Post Number: #8 Post
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krava wrote:
The question is , is that thing too old and out of date to use? That thing is 17 years old.


As long as the ball does what you want it to do, it doesn't matter how old it is.

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 Post subject: Re: Joyride cracked need replacment
 Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 6:13 pm Post Number: #9 Post
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Yep, the Faball urethanes are even older and still work great when you need a good urethane...

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 Post subject: Re: Joyride cracked need replacment
 Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 7:33 pm Post Number: #10 Post
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The Track Tundra is my control piece for when lanes are on the drier side or on shorter sport shot patterns. It does not flip off the dry - it gives me a really nice controlled ball motion. I believe it would be somewhat equivalent to the Ride and Joy Ride. And FWIW, I don't agree with the BTM review of it. They seem to believe it is fairly angular and I disagree with their assessment.


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 Post subject: Re: Joyride cracked need replacment
 Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 11:35 pm Post Number: #11 Post
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Same here with the Tundra, just drilled one pin above bridge which is about 5" pin to pap and 30* VAL for me and it is a very good ball for dry conditions. Tested it on a house shot that was played on the previous night's league (4 player teams) and wasn't re oiled, played around mid day so that burn sat there for a while. Out of box surface and was sliding anywhere from 25-35 sending it out to 12-6 and was consistently splitting the 8-9. The ball didn't jump at all, even with the pin up layout. Transitions where very smooth. Love this ball, wanna try it on fresh with more surface.

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 Post subject: Re: Joyride cracked need replacment
 Posted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 4:35 am Post Number: #12 Post
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The Track Tundra looks like a great ball. The specs and everything. What would you say the difference between that and a Fanatic BTU? 1 is urethane the other is reactive? Is the ball motion between those 2 balls different? I think the fantaic will read the lane earlier then the Tundra but not hook quite as much.


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 Post subject: Re: Joyride cracked need replacment
 Posted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 1:38 pm Post Number: #13 Post
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krava wrote:
The Track Tundra looks like a great ball. The specs and everything. What would you say the difference between that and a Fanatic BTU? 1 is urethane the other is reactive? Is the ball motion between those 2 balls different? I think the fantaic will read the lane earlier then the Tundra but not hook quite as much.


The difference between the Tundra and the BTU is that the Tundra is going to store a little more energy for the back end and the BTU will be a bit flatter. The BTU is not urethane but is designed to give a urethane-type ball motion. The few times I have seen it in action, I'd say it sits clearly between a current day resin ball motion and a yesteryear urethane reaction. The Tundra will be more of a weak resin motion. In terms of overall hook potential, I would say they are fairly close - they just go about it differently.


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 Post subject: Re: Joyride cracked need replacment
 Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2017 4:32 am Post Number: #14 Post
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So the BTU would be a ball i would like if I wanted to take the backend out? I bowled today and the backends were too much even with my low flare match ball. about 80% or more of the people that bowl at our house didn't get close to their average. A 2 hander killed his average though because he likes the big backends.

Take a look at this: http://www.leaguesecretary.com/bowling- ... dings.aspx

People with 225 average #1 the proshop opertor with 50+ or so honor scores shot 540's or so. A hall of famer here shot 540's or so. Lots of people shooting in the 400's. Most of these people don't know how to "move" they are stuck on where they play and can't play anywhere else. I think the proshop owner was just a bit lost or something. He usually plays 3rd or between 3rd and 4th arrow. We bowled him today and he was shooting 5th arrow with a Radical Cash ball and almost got his average. The backends jumped so bad that if you are just a little off, you would go right through the headpin. The same happend on thursday is why i posted this with the 150 average people shooting 105 max. I shot 161 195 197 today and that was horrible but my wrist is sprained so bad I am lucky to get that. I know that I can flatten the backends out if I move left. The pattern that they put out they said was 39 feet. I aim for 8 at the exit point. The only good point is that I learned about wrist position. I can take some backend out if I don't cock my wrist as much when I pull it back in the backswing.


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 Post subject: Re: Joyride cracked need replacment
 Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2017 2:46 pm Post Number: #15 Post
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krava wrote:
So the BTU would be a ball i would like if I wanted to take the backend out? I bowled today and the backends were too much even with my low flare match ball.


Neither the BTU nor the Tundra will go crazy off of dry back ends. The BTU will get into a roll sooner than the Tundra and will have a flatter overall shape/ball motion (to the eye, it will look lazier). The Tundra has more of a typical resin ball motion, however, it will be much weaker and less of a defined snap off the break point than mid-level polished bowling balls. The Tundra is a step down from the Match.


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