Hey, was wondering about the new Fix(s), some of the balls I have, I buy used, single drilled stuff and have ball plugged and
re-drilled. I know when they're plugged they'll have different density than original, but...would I still be able to use drill patterns (as guidelines)? I have a number of used like that and it allows me to have newer stuff at a less expensive price.
Radical fix
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Re: Radical fix
Unless u are a 240 average player u can bowl with no problems with plugged balls.jprescott wrote:Hey, was wondering about the new Fix(s), some of the balls I have, I buy used, single drilled stuff and have ball plugged and
re-drilled. I know when they're plugged they'll have different density than original, but...would I still be able to use drill patterns (as guidelines)? I have a number of used like that and it allows me to have newer stuff at a less expensive price.
( resin balls are subject to "curing chemical modification" the older they get the worse is their pin carry, and a plugged ball is surely older than a brand new one).
The problem of plugging is "cracking". I've been using for 25 + years an epoxy plug which gave me huge problems of "cracking".
Since few years ago I switched to a different brand ( always epoxy) and I have now no problems at all! Many thanks to that american suppplier who suggest me to change ( just for airfreight safety reason).My 2 cents.
Re: Radical fix
Why would a plugged ball be a problem for a 240+ average bowler? and not for a lesser bowler?clatara wrote: Unless u are a 240 average player u can bowl with no problems with plugged balls.
"curing chemical modification" Hadn't heard that one before. And that causes balls to get worse pin carry.resin balls are subject to "curing chemical modification" the older they get the worse is their pin carry,
Not necessarilyand a plugged ball is surely older than a brand new one).
"REMEMBER, it isn't how much the ball hooks, it's where."
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Re: Radical fix
@ bowl1820.
replace my word "surely" with " in most cases".
as far as other point goes: reactive resin behaves as tyre compound does ( it ages).
The older they are the harder they become.
In english generelly this phenomenon is called "curing", we in italian we call it " invecchiamento" or "stagionatura".
Car manufacturers know very well that a tyre after 5 years after his construction becomes quite stiff and unsecure ( in fact on side of tyre there must be stamped date of production. Example given 11/16 means 11the week of 2016).
On owner manual of my car is written in capital letter " drive slowly if your tyres are older than 5/6 years".
If an old tyre has a decreasing grip on tarmac an old reactive resin has a decreased grip on a oily lane, thus a decreased " pin carry" ( less strikes).
In my experience a premium ball designed for oily lanes looses at least 10% of her peak preformance every year. ( deoiling & resurfacing can delay a bit this rate, but non stop it !)
For that reason if you are a "top player" you'd better change your arsenal for oily lanes every two years max.
For dry lanes.... much less problems you can use also an.... Excalibur ! just kidding.
replace my word "surely" with " in most cases".
as far as other point goes: reactive resin behaves as tyre compound does ( it ages).
The older they are the harder they become.
In english generelly this phenomenon is called "curing", we in italian we call it " invecchiamento" or "stagionatura".
Car manufacturers know very well that a tyre after 5 years after his construction becomes quite stiff and unsecure ( in fact on side of tyre there must be stamped date of production. Example given 11/16 means 11the week of 2016).
On owner manual of my car is written in capital letter " drive slowly if your tyres are older than 5/6 years".
If an old tyre has a decreasing grip on tarmac an old reactive resin has a decreased grip on a oily lane, thus a decreased " pin carry" ( less strikes).
In my experience a premium ball designed for oily lanes looses at least 10% of her peak preformance every year. ( deoiling & resurfacing can delay a bit this rate, but non stop it !)
For that reason if you are a "top player" you'd better change your arsenal for oily lanes every two years max.
For dry lanes.... much less problems you can use also an.... Excalibur ! just kidding.
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Re: Radical fix
Blueprint (Bill Sempsrott) did a study a while back for Bowling This Month where he simulated drilling and plugging and re-drilling balls. Essentially there's not enough difference to matter to the on-lane ball motion. One thing I would take into account is where you'll be tracking. I wouldn't want the plugged area in my track if I could help it.jprescott wrote:Hey, was wondering about the new Fix(s), some of the balls I have, I buy used, single drilled stuff and have ball plugged and
re-drilled. I know when they're plugged they'll have different density than original, but...would I still be able to use drill patterns (as guidelines)? I have a number of used like that and it allows me to have newer stuff at a less expensive price.
So in short, yes, use the drill patterns provided by Radical as guidelines on the plugged Fix(s).
James Talley