amf sidewinder drill press??

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joelcschwartz
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amf sidewinder drill press??

Post by joelcschwartz »

will it drill acurately at all?? does it have any major downfalls any positives??
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JohnP
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Re: amf sidewinder drill press??

Post by JohnP »

Will it drill accurately at all? -- Yes, if the driller is knowledgeable and careful.

Downfalls -- It can't do ovals, I'm not sure about the interchangeable thumbs, have never tried. The lateral finger pitches cannot be accurate by the scale, but when you understand how you can "fudge" the scale to get what you want (lateral thumb pitches are accurate by the scale). Parts are very scarce, if a critical part fails you may have to scrap the drill. They take #2 Morse Taper bits which are not as common as straight shank bits. The drill shaft picks up a lot of drilling dust and over time begins to bind. I clean mine with WD40.

Positives -- If you look hard enough you may be able to find one very cheap if you don't have to ship it. If you have a choice, go with a standard press.

I drill on an AMF 3600 Sidewinder, if you want to discuss them PM me and I'll send you my phone #. -- JohnP
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Re: amf sidewinder drill press??

Post by georgeh »

Understanding the AMF 2500 requires a slightly different mindset. Once you come to terms with drilling horizontal and the adjustments needed, the use of the machine becomes second nature. JohnP is correct that the thumb is easy and will be accurate once you get used to the machine. The fingers, now that's where you have to understand what you're dealing with.

How do you achieve 3/8" left lateral, 1/8" reverse? The 1/8" reverse/forward will be as accurate as the measuring decal/indicator on the machine and the locking bolt, same as the thumb. The lateral on the other hand is achieved by measuring the bridge + finger hole/2. What? Finger hole 31/32", add half the bridge measurement of 5/32", let's say 5/16" bridge. That comes to 36/32". Take 1/2 of that, 36/64" or let us say 9/16" give or take a pinch. That's the lateral pitch when the indicator is set at ZERO. To get back to 3/8", use the crank for the lateral and set the indicator at 3/16" (down for hole on left side of grip, middle finger, right handed or ring for lefty) . It sounds and reads harder than it is.

I drilled on a 2500 for 16 years til I broke down and bought a drill press/jig. I continue, to this day, to use the AMF Morse Taper 2 drill bits in one of my set-ups. I still have the service manual for it that I got from AMF back in the day.

Also, I believe ballspinner on here, AKA; John @ Innovative bought out a supply of AMF 2500 parts some years back. Not sure what all he has. The one key part that always gets broken is the plexiglass target for setting the ball in the cradle accurately. Without it, setting the ball up before drilling takes an extra step.

With what a used jig and press can be purchased for on the open market, unless you get a great deal on a sidewinder, like JohnP, I would opt for the upright.

edited to CORRECT bridge math, George
Last edited by georgeh on June 8th, 2013, 4:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: amf sidewinder drill press??

Post by stan »

Never used it but I know only one shop in my area about 30 years ago or so that had one. He constantly complained that it always had to be recalibrated. Not sure what he meant.

Since there are people on this site that still use them, I would trust their knowledge but if I had a choice, I would go with a upright drill press with an inexpensive jig to start.
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Re: amf sidewinder drill press??

Post by JohnP »

The one key part that always gets broken is the plexiglass target for setting the ball in the cradle accurately. Without it, setting the ball up before drilling takes an extra step.
Yes, I broke one of them myself. I think we bought the last two that Innovative had. I've still got one new one and two used ones that are pretty badly scratched up. Since they're irreplaceable I'm going to hang onto them. George -- please explain the extra step required if you don't have a target plate, I've never tried drilling without one. If it's too complicated to explain in writing PM me your phone # and I'll call. -- JohnP
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Re: amf sidewinder drill press??

Post by georgeh »

JohnP wrote: Yes, I broke one of them myself. I think we bought the last two that Innovative had. I've still got one new one and two used ones that are pretty badly scratched up. Since they're irreplaceable I'm going to hang onto them. George -- please explain the extra step required if you don't have a target plate, I've never tried drilling without one. If it's too complicated to explain in writing PM me your phone # and I'll call. -- JohnP
JohnP, I pm'd you also. Center cradle between the finger/thumb (where the target would be on the bit side) and lock it. Set the ball in cradle with the center of grip, at centerline, is lined up with the spade of the drill bit (at 0" 0" pitch), making sure the point of the bit is centered on grip centerline. Level the centerline best you can by eye. Slightly tighten ball clamp, loosen cradle lock, shift the handle to the thumb location, bring the bit up to the ball and make sure the bit is centered on grip centerline. If it isn't, turn ball til grip centerline is centered on the bit, double check the at grip center. When both the grip center and thumb area are lined up on centerline with bit point, tighten ball clamp, back bit off ever so slightly double check by using the handle to make sure the ball travels along the along centerline, set pitches, adjust the span adjustment and bit size adjuster to the cut line, and drill the thumb. This lines the ball the ball up.
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Re: amf sidewinder drill press??

Post by JohnP »

Thanks, I understand. The only problem I see is getting the cradle set at dead center, my 3600 has some "slop" there. But that would only shift the grip center maybe 1/4" at the most, probably not significant. -- JohnP
georgeh
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Re: amf sidewinder drill press??

Post by georgeh »

JohnP wrote:Thanks, I understand. The only problem I see is getting the cradle set at dead center, my 3600 has some "slop" there. But that would only shift the grip center maybe 1/4" at the most, probably not significant. -- JohnP
If your 3600 is similar to the 2500, then set the span at the longest span, centering bit on CL and use the span set handle to check the line by ratcheting to the shortest span.If the ball is lined up the bit should travel @long grip CL.

I'm not familiar with the 3600 and know very little about that model. When the 2500 has that 'slop' in the center, I think the cradle can be shifted ever so little toward the thumb and it stabilizes right on the CL. Also, is there an adjustment knob for the cradle 'float' for bridge setting or a release for off-set or Collier Grip drilling?

It's been about 9 years since I sold my 2500, so most of this is being dredged from memory of years ago.
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Re: amf sidewinder drill press??

Post by JohnP »

Also, is there an adjustment knob for the cradle 'float' for bridge setting or a release for off-set or Collier Grip drilling?
The bridge width can be adjusted, but the adjustment is inside the drill housing and I've never even seen it other than in the instruction manual. No release for off-set or Collier Grip drilling (can do it, but have to carefully shift the ball in the cradle). -- JohnP
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KurtHuhn
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Re: amf sidewinder drill press??

Post by KurtHuhn »

Well I don't hate it, everyone else does! There isn't one left within a day's driving distance of me! All I want it for is to convert trash pile balls into "house" balls. Would love a sidewinder and a ball polisher, or even lustre king!
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