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 Post subject: Polish vs. Actual Surface
 Posted: Fri Feb 08, 2019 10:48 pm Post Number: #1 Post
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When a bowling ball is polished using a polish, is the cover of the ball in contact with the lane, or is it just the polish?
Or is it better to use a spinner and a 4000 or 5000 pad on the ball?
Geez, I hope I worded the question understandably.


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 Post subject: Re: Polish vs. Actual Surface
 Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2019 12:49 am Post Number: #2 Post
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Polish is a liquid sanding compound. The resulting smooth surface is the actual ball.
However, there is some debate as to whether or not the carriers in polishes and compounds get into the pores of the coverstack and change the reaction.

Never use polish or compound that have silicone or wax additives on reactive resin balls. Innovative "Slip Agent" probably has additives, but their compound and polish do not AFAIK.

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 Post subject: Re: Polish vs. Actual Surface
 Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2019 7:50 am Post Number: #3 Post
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I am not an expert on the subject, but experiment with different surfaces a lot. Remember that my experiences are based on being speed dominate.

The last couple of months, I have been struggling with dry conditions and decided to try the Innovative compound, polish and slip agent products.

Compound - I have used it over 320, 600 and 1000 grit surfaces with very good results. The ball retains more energy early and provides more power at the pocket. The ball typically reads the oil pattern well and is very controllable but to strong for dry conditions. I will definitely continue using it as needed.

Polish - I have used it over 600 and 1000 grit surfaces. I have had some good results with it also but will be careful to not over do it. With my lack of revolutions, highly polished balls tend to read the oil pattern inconsistently, even when dry.

Slip agent - I tried the complete system (600 grit surface, compound, polish and slip agent) on a ball with little success. The ball would not read the oil consistently and lacked power at the pocket. I will try it again if I come across extremely dry conditions and believe it might work well for higher rev players?

For reference, I have a Fix and Black Widow Red Legend that I hit with a maroon or light gray scotchbrite pad every 6-10 games on the other end of the spectrum. I have had a lot of success with this surface also and can do it at the alley if needed.

My next efforts to conquer the dry conditions will involve low flare layouts with some surface.

I hope this helps.

Kevin

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 Post subject: Re: Polish vs. Actual Surface
 Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 9:33 pm Post Number: #4 Post
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well, remember that you need to match up with the lane.

300 grit and a dry lane will NOT retain energy. LOL - that will burn up early and hook early.

Also remember that you need to match up with your delivery and speed. for my M-in-Law, 300 would be extremely bad. She has very slow speed (she's 83 so . . . ) and uses a suitcase delivery. 300 grit snaps her ball HARD, pretty much whatever the lanes are. We have to go much smoother - but not polished or it snaps hard when it hits dry.

Think of it like tires. On dry roads, you'll get more desired traction with slick tires, but they're rubbish on wet. Our lanes are a combination of wet and dry - so a slick tire would plane through the wet and once it hits dry, it will grab and snap. But on a drier condition, it will go longer and transition more nicely. But in the mud or rain, you want tires with tread. They're no good on the dry, but in the wet they get through the mud and water and grab the road. Same with balls.

Not PERFECT but it does give some insight.


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