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 Post subject: Mo Says
 Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 4:48 pm Post Number: #1 Post
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From: viewtopic.php?t=4750

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You've got it right. On asyms., use pin to PAP distances of 2 3/4" to 4" to get the ball to change direction and read friction. Use 4" to 5" pin to PAP distances when you want to play straighter.


This response has inspired me to start a "Mo Says" page in Word. As I find other helpful hints I'll add them to the page and keep it for reference. If anyone has similar quotes please either post them here or provide the link and I'll add them to my page. If requested I'll try to figure out how to add a page to the wiki for others to use. -- JohnP


Last edited by JohnP on Thu Feb 21, 2013 12:04 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Mo Says
 Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 5:19 pm Post Number: #2 Post
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Great idea. You might include a reference as well, such as: in response to question regarding pap to pin for low tilt, high rotation, 400 rpm, 18mph bowler.


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 Post subject: Re: Mo Says
 Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 5:30 pm Post Number: #3 Post
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JohnP wrote:
Quote:
You've got it right. On asyms., use pin to PAP distances of 2 3/4" to 4" to get the ball to change direction and read friction. Use 4" to 5" pin to PAP distances when you want to play straighter.


This response has inspired me to start a "Mo Says" page in Word. As I find other helpful hints I'll add them to the page and keep it for reference. If anyone has similar quotes please either post them here or provide the link and I'll add them to my page. If requested I'll try to figure out how to add a page to the wiki for others to use. -- JohnP


That quote was for low tilt bowlers. For high tilt bowlers, don't use 3" to 4" pin to PAPs on asyms. unless there's lots of friction, or you're using a ton of surface with a big, strong balance hole. Use 4" to 5" pin to PAPs to read friction and 5" to 6" pin to PAPs to play straight. Another example of the need for accurate delivery specs.


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 Post subject: Re: Mo Says
 Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 8:30 pm Post Number: #4 Post
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Modified the first quote and added the second. -- JohnP


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 Post subject: Re: Mo Says
 Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 1:38 pm Post Number: #5 Post
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Re: Mo Says:
Hide the F'n polish........ :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: Mo Says
 Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 2:39 am Post Number: #6 Post
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Hand grenades at 20 paces

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 Post subject: Re: Mo Says
 Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 5:35 pm Post Number: #7 Post
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I'm really looking for succinct technical information instead of "Moisms". -- JohnP


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 Post subject: Re: Mo Says
 Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 12:41 am Post Number: #8 Post
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What do we have here? A "local legend in his own mind" perhaps?

:lol:


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 Post subject: Re: Mo Says
 Posted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 12:11 am Post Number: #9 Post
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BOWLING WELL IS RELATED TO EFFICIENCY, NOT EXERTION!

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 Post subject: Re: Mo Says
 Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 5:59 pm Post Number: #10 Post
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Mo says: "There's no IQ test in bowling"

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 Post subject: Re: Mo Says
 Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 3:40 pm Post Number: #11 Post
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JohnP wrote:
I'm really looking for succinct technical information instead of "Moisms". -- JohnP

Ok, but you might want to start an extra one with the Mo-isms!


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 Post subject: Re: Mo Says
 Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 5:47 pm Post Number: #12 Post
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This quote taken from viewtopic.php?f=6&t=4557&p=36474#p36474 (see # 19)
ALL bowling balls with migrate along the RG contour of the Bowler's PAP. That's governed by the laws of the universe. Therefore, in order to create a unique migration path, you must create a unique RG contour for that ball. ALL balls have RG contours that use the low and high RG axis as the centroid for the RG contours. The higher the differential ratio, the more of the RG contours that are centered around the high RG axis, and the flatter those ellipses. That's just pure science and math.


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 Post subject: Re: Mo Says
 Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 1:49 pm Post Number: #13 Post
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We need more like this...

Mo Pinel wrote:
When the fingers are over 3" deep, don't go any deeper than 2 3/4" on the balance hole! The holes will meet, if you drill the balance hole too deep.

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Ball Speed - 14.5 by monitor
RevRate - 250-275
Axis Tilt - 4°
Axis Rotation - 45°
PAP - 5 1/2"> 7/8"^


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 Post subject: Re: Mo Says
 Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 5:31 pm Post Number: #14 Post
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ABSO-FREAKING-LUTELY! -- JohnP


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 Post subject: Re: Mo Says
 Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 6:34 pm Post Number: #15 Post
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Mo Pinel wrote:

Staying behind the ball causes it to track high. Specifically, lack of axis tilt. Staying in the thumb too long causes it to track very close to the thumb. That's the real skinny.

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MF - 4 1/8, 1/4 L, 1/8 Rev.
RF - 4 5/16, 5/8 R, 3/8 Rev.
Thumb - 3 1/8" Long, 7/16 Rev, 1/8 R, 47 Deg. oval (27/32 x 1)
PAP: 5 3/4 x 3/4 up
Speed: 18.0 off hand
Rev Rate: 200
Axis Rot: 70
Axis Tilt: 3


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 Post subject: Re: Mo Says
 Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 2:55 pm Post Number: #16 Post
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Mo Pinel wrote:
Don't worry about the cg. No problem. CGs don't mean a thing (to) ball motion as long as the ball has legal statics. .... NEVER put balance holes below the thumb. Too much of a chance of flaring over it.

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HS-811, HG-300(3), 299(5), 11 in-a-row(4)
Ball Speed - 14.5 by monitor
RevRate - 250-275
Axis Tilt - 4°
Axis Rotation - 45°
PAP - 5 1/2"> 7/8"^


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 Post subject: Re: Mo Says
 Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 4:57 pm Post Number: #17 Post
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With Scotch Brite pads, it's all about the pressure you use with the pad. Burgundy results in 400 to 800 depending on the pressure. Grey results in 800 to 1500, again, depending on the pressure used.
Using scuff pads is not an exact science, but this is usually done during practice when the ball you want to use is not reacting enough. After the bowling is done, I always recommend using a spinner to return the ball to its' normal surface.


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 Post subject: Re: Mo Says
 Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 5:11 pm Post Number: #18 Post
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From: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=4735

On a symmetrical ball drilled without a balance hole, the PSA (high RG) axis ends up very near the thumb. That puts the PAP near the intermediate RG axis on a vast majority of bowlers. Putting a balance hole in the PAP, which is near the int. RG axis, raises the RG of the int. RG axis. That decreases the int. diff., which makes the ball more symmetrical. That's what blueprint's excellent attachment shows. This explanation is for those who have math phobia.


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 Post subject: Re: Mo Says
 Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 5:15 pm Post Number: #19 Post
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From: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=4747

Increasing the reverse in the middle finger actually helped to lower your tilt. Changing pitches changes the resulting ball motion. If you have to change the grip to accomodate issues like this, CHANGE THE SPAN FIRST TO RELIEVE THE PRESSURE, NOT THE PITCH, UNLESS YOU WANT TO CHANGE THE ROLL!


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 Post subject: Re: Mo Says
 Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 2:42 am Post Number: #20 Post
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JohnP wrote:
With Scotch Brite pads, it's all about the pressure you use with the pad. Burgundy results in 400 to 800 depending on the pressure. Grey results in 800 to 1500, again, depending on the pressure used.
Using scuff pads is not an exact science, but this is usually done during practice when the ball you want to use is not reacting enough. After the bowling is done, I always recommend using a spinner to return the ball to its' normal surface.


Green Pads are for dishes!

I wish I read that before using a green pad several times on my 2furious....oh well it worked pretty well for me. It got my pin down 2furious reading early enough for the smooth arc to bounce off the dry when my Tropical Storm over-skidded....which is usually the case on fresh oil.


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